Seed to Swan

Bean Roasting Studio

Roast green coffee one step at a time: what the heat does to the beans, how the roast curve should run, when the two cracks come, and how light, medium and dark roasts end up tasting.

Cut open

A real roast takes 10–15 minutes: 1× is real time, so you could roast along with it. 8× shows a whole roast in under two minutes.

The theory

Everything behind the animation: the machine, what happens inside a bean, the two cracks, the roast curve, the roast levels and how they taste, the common faults, why every coffee roasts differently, and how to choose, rest and brew roasted beans.

Inside a drum roaster

Most specialty coffee is roasted in a drum roaster: a gas burner under a turning steel drum, with a fan pulling hot air through the tumbling beans. Here it is cut open in the middle of the medium roast.

    The medium roast in one look

      What happens inside the bean

      Green coffee is a hard, wet seed that smells of grass and plants, nothing like coffee. Heat first drives the water out, then turns sugars and proteins into colour, aroma and gas. Here is one bean through the whole medium-to-dark journey.

      Drying

      Green coffee is about 10–12 % water. Until roughly 150 °C much of the heat goes into turning it to steam: the beans go pale, then yellow, and smell of grass and hay. Browning can’t really get going while the bean is still wet.

      Maillard reaction

      From about 140–150 °C sugars react with amino acids (bits of protein), as on bread crust or a seared steak: brown colour (melanoidins) and hundreds of new aromas, from toast to nuts to caramel.

      Strecker degradation

      A side branch of the Maillard reaction. It makes much of the smell we call “coffee”, and nearly all of the CO₂ that stays trapped in roasted beans.

      Caramelization

      From about 160–170 °C the sugar (sucrose) breaks down, like making caramel: sweeter and more complex at first, more bitter the further it goes. It also uses up the bright fruit acids.

      Pressure and cracks

      Steam and CO₂ build up inside the cells. At about 196 °C they split the bean with a pop (first crack). At about 224 °C the cell walls break again (second crack) and oil is pushed out to the surface.

      Pyrolysis

      Very hot for long enough, the bean starts to char. A little gives the plain “roasty” taste of dark coffee; a lot turns it into charcoal, and in the end it can catch fire.

      Bean temperature: what happens where

      Before: green
      After: medium roast

      First crack and second crack

      The two sounds every roaster waits for. Turn on the sound to hear them on the stage, or play them here.

      First crack · about 196 °CLoud, single pops like popcorn, then a rolling burst for about a minute. Steam and CO₂ split the bean along its centre line: it doesn’t burst open like popcorn, it lets the gas out. From now on the coffee is drinkable; light roasts end soon after.
      Second crack · about 224 °CQuieter and much faster: a crackle like a log fire or rice crispies. The bean’s structure breaks, it swells and turns porous, and oil is pushed to the surface. Medium-dark roasts stop at its first snaps, dark roasts during it.

      Between the cracks

      • At the medium roast’s pace the two cracks are about 3½–4 minutes apart.
      • Right after first crack the bean briefly takes in less heat (it is busy letting off steam), so the curve can dip: roasters turn the gas down a little before it, not all at once.
      • Near second crack the bean starts to give off heat of its own, so a dark roast can run away fast.

      Listening tips

      • The first few pops are “outliers”: note the time when the cracking becomes steady.
      • First crack: loud and sparse. Second crack: quiet, fast, many at once.
      • Too long a pause between the first pops and steady cracking often means the heat is too low.

      Reading the roast curve

      Roasters log both probes every second. The bean-temperature line and how fast it climbs (the rate of rise, °C per minute) are the roast profile: the same green coffee on a different curve tastes different.

      The lines

      • Bean temperature (BT): the probe in the tumbling beans. It starts high (the probe sat in hot air), dives when the cold beans land on it, and turns at the turning point.
      • Air temperature (ET): the hot air around the beans. The gap between it and the beans is what pushes heat in.
      • Rate of rise (RoR): how many degrees the beans gain per minute. It should fall smoothly from start to drop.
      • Gas and air (the strip at the bottom): the two controls. Gas is the heat; air carries heat in and smoke and chaff out.

      Good habits

      • Note four moments every roast: turning point, yellow, first crack, drop.
      • Lower the gas in steps before first crack so the rate of rise keeps falling: no spike (“running away”), no flat stretch (“baking”).
      • Same coffee, same batch size, same machine: follow the same curve. Roasting software can show the last good roast behind the new one.
      • Development time ratio = time after first crack ÷ total time. It’s one handy number to compare roasts, not a goal by itself.

      Longer or shorter: what each phase does (after Rob Hoos)

      Drying

      Shorter: clearer, brighter, lighter body, but more pressure and more risk of defects. Longer: more body and complexity, but it can turn dull.

      Browning (Maillard)

      Shorter: simpler, lighter body, cleaner. Longer: more complex, heavier body, less clarity. Under about 2 minutes risks an underdeveloped cup.

      Development

      Shorter: brighter acidity but it can taste vegetal. Longer: rounder acidity and more complexity, until it turns flat.

      Caramelization

      Less: more sugar left, simpler, possibly green. More: less sugar left, more complex, then roasty, burnt tones.

      Roast levels

      There is no official scale: one roaster’s light is another’s medium. What really changes is how far past first crack the beans go, and so the colour, the oil and the taste. Click a level to roast it on the stage.

      How to read roasted beans

      • Texture: wrinkled just after first crack, smoothing out as the roast goes on.
      • Size: beans keep swelling; dark beans are much bigger but lighter.
      • Colour: deeper, and more even from bean to bean.
      • Chaff: bits of silver skin still in the crease mean a light roast.
      • Oil: any oil on the surface means a dark roast (sometimes it appears a day or two later).

      Labels to take with a pinch of salt

      • Specialty roasters call a wide band “light”, starting right after first crack. Commercial roasters shift every band darker: their light can be a specialty medium.
      • “Espresso roast” is not a level. It means roasted to dissolve more easily (a touch darker, or a slower, longer roast). You can still brew it any way you like.
      • French, Italian and Vienna are colours, not origins.
      • Roasters check colour with a meter (Agtron is the best known) on a ground sample: useful inside a roastery, less so on a bag.

      Light, medium and dark in the cup

      As a roast goes on, bitterness climbs all the way, acidity rises early and then fades, and the coffee’s own origin flavours appear and then get covered by a generic roast taste. Sweetness peaks in between. Dark roasts from different countries end up tasting alike.

      Light

      Bright, juicy acidity; fruit, flowers, citrus, tea-like and light in body. Shows the farm and the process best. Brew finer and hotter.

      Medium

      Balanced: caramel, nuts, milk chocolate, a little fruit; medium body. The most forgiving roast and the most drunk.

      Medium-dark

      Dark chocolate, toasted sugar, roasted almonds, a hint of spice; low acidity, fuller body.

      Dark

      Bittersweet, smoky, heavy; almost no acidity; little of the origin left. Stands up to milk and sugar.

      Caffeine: nearly the same

      Roasting hardly touches caffeine: by weight light ≈ 1.2–1.4 %, dark ≈ 1.1–1.3 %. Light beans are denser, so a scoop of them holds about 5–10 % more. “Bold” is a taste, not a caffeine level: for less caffeine, use less coffee or decaf.

      Acidity is not bitterness

      Light roasts are more acidic (bright, sour-ish), not more bitter. Bitterness comes from darker roasting, and from over-extracting when you brew.

      Roasting lab: change one thing

      Start from the medium roast, change one setting and watch the curve, the times and the cup move. The dashed line is the medium roast as planned.

      The lab, the curve and the numbers on this page come from a small heat model of a 1 kg drum roaster, set to match the times and temperatures in the sources. They show which way each change pushes a roast, not what your machine will do.

      Roast defects: right vs wrong

      All on the medium roast, one thing done wrong at a time. Press “Watch it” to see the whole roast go wrong on the stage, with the curve.

      Why every coffee roasts differently

      Green coffee is a farm product: no two lots behave the same in the drum, so a good profile for one coffee can be wrong for the next.

      Density and altitude

      Dense beans (often grown high up) need more energy and can take a hotter start. Soft, low-density beans burn easily: be gentle.

      Water content

      Wetter beans take longer to dry before anything else can happen. Drier beans heat up and move through the roast faster.

      Size and shape

      Big beans take longer to heat through. Small round peaberries roll differently in the drum and roast faster and more evenly.

      Process

      Naturals and honeys carry sugar on the surface: they roast faster and scorch more easily. Washed coffees are clean and roast evenly. How each process is made: the Green Coffee studio.

      Variety and species

      Different varieties have different structures and sugars, so they react to heat differently, and taste different at the same colour. Which variety gives what: the Coffee Tree studio.

      Batch size and the room

      Small batches heat fast and react quickly to changes; big ones have more momentum. A cold room or a cold machine slows a roast down.

      Same roast plan, two coffees

      The video test: 300 g of each, the same settings and changes all the way, and the same time after first crack. Our model of the same idea is in the right-hand columns.

      Roasting machines

      Heat reaches a bean in three ways: hot air flowing past it (convection), touching hot metal (conduction) and glowing hot metal nearby (radiation). The machines mix them differently; none is “best”, they are tools for the taste a roaster wants.

      Drum roasterA spinning drum over a burner; a fan pulls the hot air through. Mostly convection, plus some conduction from the hot drum. The most common machine in specialty coffee.
      Hot-air (fluid bed)A blower lifts and churns the beans on a column of hot air: no moving parts and no hot metal. Fast roasts, often described as clean and bright.
      HybridA drum still tumbles the beans, but the air is heated outside the drum, so the drum itself stays cool: almost no conduction.

      Roasting at home

      • Hot-air popcorn popper or small air roaster: fast (about 6–9 minutes), small batches, loud and chaffy.
      • Frying pan or wok: cheap but uneven: keep stirring. Oven tray: beans burn where they touch the metal.
      • Bread machine + heat gun (the paddle stirs, the gun heats), or a home drum or air roaster for more control.

      Before you start

      • Start with 100–250 g, and write down times, temperatures and the taste every time.
      • Roast outside or under a strong hood: there is smoke and flying chaff.
      • Never leave a roast alone: past second crack the beans can catch fire.
      • Sample roasts of a few hundred grams are how roasters test a new coffee before a full batch.

      After the roast: cool, rest, keep fresh

      Cool fast

      Beans leave the drum above 200 °C and keep roasting until they cool. A stirred tray with a big fan gets them to room temperature in a few minutes. Big roasters sometimes add a fine water mist (“quenching”) that flashes off instantly.

      Degassing

      Fresh beans keep breathing out CO₂ for days. Bags have a one-way valve: squeeze one and a hiss means the coffee is still fresh and still degassing.

      Rest before brewing

      Give beans at least 2–3 days. Too fresh, they bubble so much that water struggles to get in. Espresso usually wants a bit longer than filter. How to dial it in: the Espresso studio.

      Freshness

      Whole beans stay near their best for about 2–4 weeks after roasting. Look for a roast date, not a best-before date, and grind just before brewing: ground coffee loses aroma in days.

      Storage

      Airtight, cool, dark, away from the stove. Oily dark roasts go stale faster: buy them in smaller bags.

      How roasters check a batch

      Did it follow the planned curve? Is the weight loss as expected (14.5 % planned and 15 % measured is a warning)? Is the colour right on the meter? And they taste (cup) it.

      A handy rule of thumb from one guide, the 15-15-15 rule: buy within 15 days of roasting, grind within 15 minutes of brewing, drink within 15 minutes of pouring.

      Choosing and brewing roasted beans

      Roast level is only a rough guide: the green coffee decides most of the taste. Roasting can turn blue into teal or navy, never into orange. Taste two very different coffees side by side and you will learn what you like faster than from any label.

      Brewing different roasts

      • Light: dense and slow to give up its flavour: grind a little finer, brew hotter (93–96 °C), allow a bit more time.
      • Dark: dissolves fast and turns bitter: grind a little coarser and brew cooler (about 90 °C, or lower).
      • Switching roasts on the same brewer? Change the grind first.
      • More on brewing: the V60 Brewing studio.

      Reading the bag

      • Origin: country, region, farm or co-op (single origin), or a blend.
      • Altitude (masl), variety (e.g. Gesha, Typica) and process (washed, natural, honey, anaerobic).
      • Roast date and the roaster’s tasting notes: the most useful lines on the bag.
      • New to specialty? Try single origins before blends: one less thing to untangle.

      Species

      SpeciesShare of the world’s coffeeCaffeineTaste
      Arabica≈ 56–60 %≈ 1.2–1.5 %Sweeter, more acidity and aroma; fruit, berries, chocolate. Grown high, costly to farm. Almost all specialty coffee.
      Robusta≈ 40–44 %≈ 2.2–2.7 %Bitter, earthy, strong body. Easy to grow low down, resists disease: instant coffee, cheap blends, some espresso blends.
      Libericaunder 2 %≈ 1.2–1.5 %Woody, smoky, bold, with floral and fruity notes. Big, long beans.
      Excelsaunder 1 %≈ 0.8–1.0 %Tart and fruity; adds complexity to blends.

      Where it grows

      East Africa

      Bright and fruity: Ethiopia berries and jasmine, Kenya bold citrus. Often tea-like in body.

      Central America

      Lively acidity, crisp; citrus, apple, stone fruit with caramel or honey sweetness.

      South America

      Smooth and mellow: chocolate, nuts, gentle acidity, medium body (Brazil, Colombia).

      Asia

      Full, earthy, spicy, herbal; Sumatra rich and syrupy with dark chocolate.

      Sources